Persicco!

So today i finally managed to make it down to Persicco on Scalabrini Ortiz and Las Heras (kinda) and i was pleasantly surprised!! After being absolutely convinced that i would not sway from supporting Volta… I may have to admit that the quality of the ice cream at Persicco was above that of Volta!!

The scoops weren’t at all generous and you get a looooot more at volta, but what you do get at Persicco for 12 pesos is 2 scoops (i went for white chocolate and chocoquina – both absolutely incredible) in a tear shaped cone bowl. The extra surprise was that i then had an option of extras to accompany my ice cream. I went for white chocolate covered biscuit – amazing!

Persicco itself also feels a lot more upmarket and less like a chain than freddo and volta. I felt really comfortable in there and sat and watched the world go by with Emma as we munched away.

So if you’re after feeling sick after eating too much ice cream then Volta is the clear choice (especially as you can opt for dulce de leche sauce and extra brownie pieces on top if you get the cone bowl), but if you’re after a slight indulgence then Persicco is the clear winner.

La Bomba de Tiempo

I know that La Bomba de Tiempo is pretty well known about here in BA to fill a monday night without having to stay out past midnight, but i just had to write about it now that i’ve finally seen it held inside the Konex, as before now i’ve only seen it in Summer on the steps outside.

At first i was pretty disappointed with the indoors layout, as it’s much harder to see the band. However as the night progressed it was definitely noticeable how much closer we were to the band as they were lower down and the crowd seemed to get much more into the music. Obviously i can’t be sure this happens every time that Bomba plays inside, but by the end of the night the audience was going MENTAL. I’d even describe the area right in front of the stage as some sort of mosh pit! Entirely unanticipated!!

So whereas before now i’d have recommended going to see Bomba in Summer to enjoy the heat and al fresco vibe, i’d now say that it doesn’t matter what time of year you go – it’s always amazing!

La Catedral

Tuesday night i wound up at La Catedral on Sarmiento 4006 to watch some tango in one of the most atmospheric places i’ve been to in BsAs.

I’d describe the building as an old warehouse type hall, with concrete walls and peeling white paint covered with random artefacts and bohemian art. The tables and chairs are a mish mash of styles and this with the candlelit tables makes for an absolutely delightful scene to sit back, enjoy the cheap and delicious calabaza empanadas and watch the milonga roll out in front of you.

We paid 15 pesos to enter, and had missed the beginning of the class but we sat and watched and i really feel it was a class i can see myself participating in. The teachers were really easy to understand and the level wasn’t too advanced for beginners.

I’ll definitely be going back before i leave!! If you don’t fancy going for the lessons then you can just watch, or turn up after 12 to watch the professionals give it a go.

Parks of Palermo

I don’t know about you guys but i definitely find myself spending too much time in front of a computer screen, so every once in a while i like to get out and do something a bit different to remind myself that i do actually have muscles, and that i am capable of raising my heart rate!

Personally, i’m just not good at going to a gym as i have no motivation to keep going for longer than a few minutes. I much prefer aerobics classes or kick boxing type fitness training, or actual team sports. However here in BA i haven’t found a gym that lets you join and just attend classes, you always have to sign up to full membership.

So i was really chuffed to find upon strolling through Palermo parks a stand where you can hire roller skates and dash around the pedestrianised paths of the park for as long as you like, obviously depending on how much you’re prepared to pay.

I chose to go for 30 minutes for 8 pesos and the girls decided to join me. I must say it was the most entertaining work out session i’ve ever had, and definitely not the most productive.

For one, none of us knew how to stop or slow down so many a time we were just screaming as we rolled along without any control with our eyes closed and arms out hoping we’d find something to grab onto!

Also, whenever anyone fell over we would all rush to help only to all end up in a pile on the floor as we could manage to pull the person up whilst keeping our balance.

So if you’re after a bit of fun to get you out of the house, i’d definitely recommend it.

Cafe Tortoni

After being so cold that ice cream has not been a tempting idea for the second time this week, Emma and i will not be venturing to Persicco until next week, so until then i’ll tell you about Café Tortoni!!

Yesterday i popped along quite early to avoid the midday queues and enjoy the incredible interior of the renowned Café where Borges is said to have enjoyed a coffee along with Carlos Gardel and other notable Argentine personalities from the yesteryear.

We strolled in through the grand doors and sat down at one of the many authentic leather chairs and tables and were served immediately. I was expecting a ridiculously overpriced menu but was surprised to find that it was very reasonable and barely different to other café chains in the city, which certainly lack the atmosphere and décor of Café Tortoni.

So after doing our touristy bit and taking many photos of the staine d glass ceiling and the chandeliers we enjoyed a submarino for only 9 pesos and then continued on our way to University for the day, happy that we had ticked another must-see in Buenos Aires off the list.

Heavenly Helado

The other day i met up with a friend and suggested we go for some ice cream in Volta. I almost died of shock when she told me that she hadn’t ever sampled any of the many exquisite flavours on offer there, however she did tell me that in San Telmo near her there is a great chain called Persicco – which i haven’t actually visited. So this week will be an ice cream education for the both of us, as we have decided to go to both and then make a decision (however i’m not sure how anywhere could outdo Volta).

The Volta on Santa Fe and Callao has an adorable courtyard at the back where i spent many long summer evening hours enjoying my Dulce de Leche Volta ice cream with friends.

I’ve noticed that most people here get a larger pot and share,  however i can never seem to agree with friends on flavours! So i usually end up with my double cone of Dulce de Leche Tentación and Caramel and Peanuts, which if i’m honest doesn’t last long at all.

Emma my friend refused to comment on the quality of Volta compared to Persicco until we’ve been to both, so in my next blog i’ll let you know how that went!!!

Milion

Now most of my friends back home have finished their degrees they are splashing out and coming travelling to celebrate the end of their student life before they commit themselves to the responsabilities of the ‘real world’.

This has made me absolutely ecstatic as a couple of friends i haven’t seen in 11 months have made the trip to South America, and many starting in Buenos Aires. After they’ve got settled into their hostels they’ve all pounced on me for personal tours and information, and of course they all want to experience the wild BsAs nightlife.

Having so much to catch up on i find the best thing to do is to go to a bar for a bit of ‘previa’ and then move onto a boliche at around 2. I can’t believe it took me 11 months to actually make it to Milion (Santa Fe y Paraguay) and enjoy the luxurious converted mansion’s various floors of bars.

The 2nd floor is ideal to chill with friends as it is comprised of many different rooms which have a really warm and private feel. It’s pretty pricey for cocktails, but then glasses of wine can also be had for 8 pesos. So i have found myself going there with pretty much every friend who has visited to chat until i can’t move my jaw any more. If the walls of Milion could talk, they’d have a lot of my stories to share…

BA Bric-a-brac

Lavalle

With my impending return home looming over me, i have suddenly found myself doing all of the touristy things i have avoided all year before i go home.

I’ve been to restaurants, clubs, shops and events that i would possibly have missed if i wasn’t leaving so soon.  Which makes me also slightly sad that i don’t live like this all the time, it’s just that funds as a student don’t seem to stretch to allow me to do quite as i please!

But this quest for last minute present hunting led me down Lavalle yesterday by all of the ridiculously touristy shops, mostly filled with absolute rubbish.

To my surprise i stumbled across a shop selling I heart BA t shirts and couldn’t resist a purchase! They’re only 20 pesos and even if i just wear mine to bed, it will make me smile every time i put it on!

Plaza Serrano

Over the past year i’ve seen Plaza Serrano transform from windy empty square, to buzzing nighttime bar zone, to packed lunchtime hotspot, to lively clothes and jewellery market.

I’ve spent many hours browsing shops there, sipping on a licuado on a hot summer’s day, or partying away after hours to reggaeton.

Writing about it doesn’t really do it justice, as you have to go along for yourself and see what vibe you get from it, which totally depends on the time of year and the time of day. I’d recommend a Saturday afternoon for shopping, when bars are filled with clothes racks rammed with locally designed clothes at really reasonable prices.

My favourite place for a coffee or lunch is Malas Artes as it has a huge menu and it may not be the cheapest place to grab some lunch, but its location is perfect and the specials are really delicious.

A more refreshing mate

It’s impossible to wander around BA’s green spaces and cafés without noticing many a porteno supping on their mate.

In Summer i was absolutely amazed at the lengths people would go to to lug around their huge flasks filled with water to top up their mate on the hottest and sweatiest of days, and although i can appreciate an occasional mate or two, i’d much rather stick to my tea!

However, this weekend i was hanging out with a Bolivian friend of mine who instead of making me a cuppa reached for her mate. I was about to decline her offer when she told me that she was going to make a refreshing alternative called tereré.

She reached for her ‘clight’ sachet of Manzana Deliciosa and emptied it into a flask and diluted with plenty of ice and water. She then whacked some ice into her mate and filled the rest with the yerba itself, topping up with the iced apple flavoured water.

I’ve seen people drinking orange tereré and wasn’t a particularly big fan, but this was absolutely delicious and so unbelievably refreshing. It’s so easy to make, apart from the annoyance of having to top up the mate with water every five minutes or so.

I popped along to my local Coto yesterday and even surprised myself by tossing some mate and clight sachets into my basket.  I’m not going to lie, i did feel pretty argentine!